It’s time for afternoon prayers, and the devout do not need anything other than their faith to perform it.
Tehran is a densely populated, sprawling city that sits on
the edge of a mountain range. In the
winter, when the westerly wind blows away the brown smog, the city is
spectacular: a pearl necklace of snow covered jagged granite rise up toward the
clouds, seemingly a few feet away from the tall apartments in the northern edge
of the city.
The only reasonable method of transportation is the metro: a
clean, modern system that is slowly growing.
At the last stop on the southernmost point of Line 1, something delightful
awaits the traveler. As you near the
exit turn styles, a few people are standing with baskets or boxes full of
cookies or sweets, giving them away for free.
They wait until all their food is gone before they go in to catch the train. This is the stop for Beheshte-Zahra, the city’s main cemetery for its millions of inhabitants. In the Iranian tradition, visiting your loved
ones at the cemetery is a ritual, filled with compassion and giving to
strangers; you offer food to a stranger, and silently ask for a prayer for your
departed.
The cemetery itself is a checkerboard of graves, marked only
with black rectangular granite or white marble tombstones, lying flat on the ground,
with the face of the departed chiseled in the stone. The tombstones are works of art
commissioned by ordinary people, each piece using calligraphy to describe a departed, often including a few tearful lines of poetry to measure the loss.
Many of the tombstones have only the top half marked,
leaving one half unfinished. Here is a
wife or a husband, awaiting their mate.
People are grieving, of course, but there is a sense of
shared pain, as all have brought something to give, making a friend for a
moment, receiving a smile, a nod of the head, a few words of comfort. Some even bring small stoves and make
traditional soups (in winter) near the grave that they have come to visit. You see the elderly woman making the soup,
and the young boy walking with small bowls and spoons, offering it to strangers.
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